When compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. However, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.
The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the owners totally surprised.
“I am totally surprised,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small shop securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.
The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.
In the end, it is all about the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.
It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.
The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.
Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.
“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.
Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.
This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.
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